Copyright AriaAustin, 1999 - 2010, all rights reserved.
Civil War/Antebellum Fashion
I have not yet created any Civil War/antebellum gowns.
Antebellum is a lesser-known word used to describe the era more commonly referrred to as the Civil War era. Northern fashion was the same as the fashions worn by Southern Belles!
There are many sources of information on how women of the Civil War era dressed. Fashion magazines of the day abound, and Godey's Ladies Book and Peterson's Magazine were two of the most popular. Paper patterns as we know them were not yet in use, so women were expected to view the pictures and figure out how to make them (or have their dressmaker/mantua maker make them up). Most of these fashion images were very elaborate styles, you can compare Godey's to the Vogue magazine of today. Most women could not afford to wear those styles, but they would be inspired by the silhouettes and style elements and adapt them to a simplified, more attainable look.
Period photographs of women provide an excellent, detailed look at what women actually wore. To be sure, they wore their best dress (if they had one) for their photograph--a very special occasion. But comparing these "best dresses" to the elaborate styles of Godey's brings us back to reality. Pay attention to style and cut-although the fabric and design elements may vary, the basic silhouette and look remains the same.
Period photographs of women provide an excellent, detailed look at what women actually wore. To be sure, they wore their best dress (if they had one) for their photograph--a very special occasion. But comparing these "best dresses" to the elaborate styles of Godey's brings us back to reality. Pay attention to style and cut-although the fabric and design elements may vary, the basic silhouette and look remains the same.
Fashion Elements, The Basics from Head to Toe
Necklines: Jewel necklines were universal and when visible were finished with an edging of piping or tape. Most necklines were enhanced with a removable white collar. Collars were basted in so that they could be removed from the dress for laundering. The exceptions were black collars for women in mourning and an occasional upright or frilled collar. Collars were generally enhanced with a brooch at the throat or a nice ribbon tie.
Sleeves: Most sleeves were very wide, with exaggerated width at the elbow. Some were gathered at the shoulder seam and at the wrist. The Bishop sleeve was gathered at the shoulder, wide at the elbow and tapered to a narrow wrist. Others were of the "coat sleeve" variety-made of two pieces, they were smooth at the shoulder seam, wide at the elbow, then tapered to a narrow wrist or with a wide opening above the wrist and undersleeves beneath. Most photos show undersleeves worn with sleeves--a look that is under-represented at reenactments. Sleeves are often trimmed with ruching or braid in period images, another look that is not often seen on reenactors. Pagoda sleeves with huge sleeve openings over undersleeves were a holdover from the 50s that was seen throughout the 1860's.
Bodices: Most bodices were fitted closely to the torso with darts from the waistband up to the bustline. Other bodices
Skirts: Fashionable skirts were as wide as possible, this width was accentuated with the support of hoops or multiple starched petticoats. With a very few exceptions, no trim was applied to the skirt. Skirts were not lined, nor
were they hemmed as we do today by turning under a portion of the fashion fabric. Hemming was done by applying a wide band of fabric (old dress fabric, muslin, even flour sacks) to the underside to give the skirt weight for a smooth fit. This hem band was usually quite wide-6 to 12 inches were the norm. Tape was often sewn into the seam between skirt bottom and hem band to prevent wearing of the fabric edges.
Skirts were fashioned to be very full, and that meant a lot of fabric must somehow be gathered up into the waist band with minimal bulk. Generally, knife pleats of various widths were used to fold the bulky fabric into a smooth line at the waist. The knife pleats were directional to the front of the skirt, where they formed an inverted box pleat.
Period Fabrics & Notions
Wool was the most widely available. It came in a variety of weave, from fine to coarse. It seamed and accepted dyes well and was durable. Well made wool fabric was so closely woven that cut edges did not ravel. The standard choice for a well made and durable garment.
Skirts were fashioned to be very full, and that meant a lot of fabric must somehow be gathered up into the waist band with minimal bulk. Generally, knife pleats of various widths were used to fold the bulky fabric into a smooth line at the waist. The knife pleats were directional to the front of the skirt, where they formed an inverted box pleat.
Period Fabrics & Notions
Wool was the most widely available. It came in a variety of weave, from fine to coarse. It seamed and accepted dyes well and was durable. Well made wool fabric was so closely woven that cut edges did not ravel. The standard choice for a well made and durable garment.
A type of fabric called "Linsey-woolsey" was used by farm wives and frontier women due to its durability and low cost. This fabric used cotton or linen as the warp thread, and wool as the weft thread. Considered by some to be coarse & ugly, it was, nevertheless, very important for the construction of work clothing.
Silk was the standard for fine dresses, and most ladies aspired to a silk dress as their "good" dress. Silk held dye colors well and raw silk garments were quite sturdy. Fine silk was more delicate, but all the more desired. Elegant brocades were made up into beautiful gowns for the wealthy.
Fashionable attired in what may be a silk gown with braid and ruching on sleeves, cuffs of undersleeves turned back over wrist. Jean Cloth was a stout, round-twilled cloth, woven with cotton warp and woolen weft but often composed entirely of cotton. Used mainly for men's wear, it became a standard fabric used in the South.
Homespun Most fabric at this time was purchased "ready made", and the art of spinning & weaving were all but forgotten in developed areas. It was essential in areas where bolt fabrics could not be purchased or blockades prevented shipments of cloth. Southern women revived the art of spinning and weaving and wore dresses made of homespun with a special pride - it was considered patriotic to make your own fabrics rather than pay high prices for Northern wool.
Fashionable attired in what may be a silk gown with braid and ruching on sleeves, cuffs of undersleeves turned back over wrist. Jean Cloth was a stout, round-twilled cloth, woven with cotton warp and woolen weft but often composed entirely of cotton. Used mainly for men's wear, it became a standard fabric used in the South.
Homespun Most fabric at this time was purchased "ready made", and the art of spinning & weaving were all but forgotten in developed areas. It was essential in areas where bolt fabrics could not be purchased or blockades prevented shipments of cloth. Southern women revived the art of spinning and weaving and wore dresses made of homespun with a special pride - it was considered patriotic to make your own fabrics rather than pay high prices for Northern wool.
Wool or cotton homespun was used on farms, the frontier, and in the South during the later years of the war.
Cotton fabrics were always available. This soft, easy to seam fabric was much desired. Some types of cotton were ironed with steam to give it a polished, shiny finish. It accepted dyes well and could be printed with elaborate patterns. Woven cottons with plaid, stripes, windowpane plaids and gingham plaids were available.
Simple dress with tucked bodice, possibly made over from fan fronted gownLinen made some of the loveliest fabrics for fine dresses and gowns. As this fabric wrinkled easily and required pressing with a high-heat iron it was relegated to "good dress" and fancy gowns.
All fabrics were sold as lengths from bolts, and bolts were very narrow-only about 20-30 inches wide.
Cotton fabrics were always available. This soft, easy to seam fabric was much desired. Some types of cotton were ironed with steam to give it a polished, shiny finish. It accepted dyes well and could be printed with elaborate patterns. Woven cottons with plaid, stripes, windowpane plaids and gingham plaids were available.
Simple dress with tucked bodice, possibly made over from fan fronted gownLinen made some of the loveliest fabrics for fine dresses and gowns. As this fabric wrinkled easily and required pressing with a high-heat iron it was relegated to "good dress" and fancy gowns.
All fabrics were sold as lengths from bolts, and bolts were very narrow-only about 20-30 inches wide.
Fabrics were available mostly as solid colors, stripes, and plaids. After viewing hundreds of period photographs, probably 80% of them feature solid color gowns, with stripes coming in second, then plaid, dots & prints. Lovely printed fabrics were used for the gowns of the wealthy, as much fabric was required to match the patterns.
Remember also that Calico was considered only suitable for the lowly, and was at times referred to as "slave cloth" for it's use in slave clothing, though it seems to have been more accepted in the west. A letter from an Army wife traveling west in 1865 remarks "all the ladies are attired in calico, and I felt sorry for them that they could afford nothing better"
Modest dress with bishop sleeves adorned with a ribbon at the collarFabric Colors Fabrics were available in a variety of prints, but mostly as solid colors, stripes, and plaids. After viewing hundreds of period photographs, probably 80% of them feature solid color gowns, with plaids coming in second, then stripes & prints. Lovely printed or brocaded fabrics were used for the gowns of the wealthy, as much fabric was required to match the patterns.
Buttons were used as fasteners and decorative touches. Buttons were made of shell, mother of pearl, glass, bone, leather, metal, and ceramics. Self-fabric covered buttons were frequent. Some fancy buttons featured exquisite portraits and designs.
Remember also that Calico was considered only suitable for the lowly, and was at times referred to as "slave cloth" for it's use in slave clothing, though it seems to have been more accepted in the west. A letter from an Army wife traveling west in 1865 remarks "all the ladies are attired in calico, and I felt sorry for them that they could afford nothing better"
Modest dress with bishop sleeves adorned with a ribbon at the collarFabric Colors Fabrics were available in a variety of prints, but mostly as solid colors, stripes, and plaids. After viewing hundreds of period photographs, probably 80% of them feature solid color gowns, with plaids coming in second, then stripes & prints. Lovely printed or brocaded fabrics were used for the gowns of the wealthy, as much fabric was required to match the patterns.
Buttons were used as fasteners and decorative touches. Buttons were made of shell, mother of pearl, glass, bone, leather, metal, and ceramics. Self-fabric covered buttons were frequent. Some fancy buttons featured exquisite portraits and designs.
Ribbon was of silk cut on the bias or narrow bands of silk woven as tapes. A grosgrain type of ribbon was available, sometimes referred to as tape. Satin ribbon was featured on bonnets, and some gowns featured strips of velvet sewn on as embellishment.
Braid was featured in swirling patterns on bodices, sleeves and jackets. Most trim was sewn to the bodice and sleeve.
Braid was featured in swirling patterns on bodices, sleeves and jackets. Most trim was sewn to the bodice and sleeve.
GWTW Factor
We shall regress from our discussion of period fashions for a moment to comment on what most reenactors call "the GWTW factor". GWTW stands for "Gone with the Wind". Some have read the book and most have seen the movie-I do not wish to disparage this work for it is a fabulous work of fiction. BUT IT IS A WORK OF FICTION. Do not take GWTW as a true vision of life during the Civil War, nor mistake the fashions in the movie for actual garments of the Civil War. The movie's costume designer was inspired by period fashion, but tempered it with 1940's silhouettes/hairstyles and added much elaboration for the sake of drama.
Yet at events you still see ladies attired in yards of polyester satin in excruciating colors, encumbered with miles of lace and trim. Sigh. Think about it a bit. Life was tough during the Civil War, requiring economies on the part of most women. Besides, what business does a ball-gown clad lady have so near a military camp (as at most events). If you are going to reenact, you should strive to portray a real personage of the times, not a fictional one. Movies are great entertainment, but other than documentaries are not a reliable source for clothing information.
We shall regress from our discussion of period fashions for a moment to comment on what most reenactors call "the GWTW factor". GWTW stands for "Gone with the Wind". Some have read the book and most have seen the movie-I do not wish to disparage this work for it is a fabulous work of fiction. BUT IT IS A WORK OF FICTION. Do not take GWTW as a true vision of life during the Civil War, nor mistake the fashions in the movie for actual garments of the Civil War. The movie's costume designer was inspired by period fashion, but tempered it with 1940's silhouettes/hairstyles and added much elaboration for the sake of drama.
Yet at events you still see ladies attired in yards of polyester satin in excruciating colors, encumbered with miles of lace and trim. Sigh. Think about it a bit. Life was tough during the Civil War, requiring economies on the part of most women. Besides, what business does a ball-gown clad lady have so near a military camp (as at most events). If you are going to reenact, you should strive to portray a real personage of the times, not a fictional one. Movies are great entertainment, but other than documentaries are not a reliable source for clothing information.
~Text courtesy of Shasta
were gathered or tucked for a looser fit. Shoulders were cut very wide and extended down the arm to a dropped armscye. Bodices were generally constructed separately from the skirt, then basted to the waistband of the skirt to make the dress. Other bodices were sewn to the skirt with a single waistband, more practical for those who are active. Bodices closed with a center front opening, using hooks and eyes or buttons. Bodices were lined to give them body.
In fact, most period images show trim applied to sleeves, a look under-represented at reenactments. Skirts were rarely trimmed (probably due to the miles of trim needed for those full skirts!)
Self-piping was used frequently in bodices, to strengthen and highlight seam lines. Armscyes on bodices were generally piped, to accentuate the seam, make the shoulders appear wider and add strength.
Boning was used generously, particularly in fancy or ball gown bodices. Boning was placed in casings along seam lines.
Period gowns were lined-sleeves and bodices but rarely skirts. Linings were not generally made of self fabrics. Women used fabric scraps, bits of old gowns, or even flour sacks for the purpose. Skirts were hemmed with a wide band of lining fabric rather than a turned under hem. This gave the skirts weight and saved on precious fashion fabric.
I have only rarely seen images of lace applied to gowns. Lace tends to show up attached to accessories such as daycaps, handkerchiefs, collars or cuffs.
Gowns & bodices fastened with hooks & eyes. These metal fasteners were sturdy and inexpensive.
Self-piping was used frequently in bodices, to strengthen and highlight seam lines. Armscyes on bodices were generally piped, to accentuate the seam, make the shoulders appear wider and add strength.
Boning was used generously, particularly in fancy or ball gown bodices. Boning was placed in casings along seam lines.
Period gowns were lined-sleeves and bodices but rarely skirts. Linings were not generally made of self fabrics. Women used fabric scraps, bits of old gowns, or even flour sacks for the purpose. Skirts were hemmed with a wide band of lining fabric rather than a turned under hem. This gave the skirts weight and saved on precious fashion fabric.
I have only rarely seen images of lace applied to gowns. Lace tends to show up attached to accessories such as daycaps, handkerchiefs, collars or cuffs.
Gowns & bodices fastened with hooks & eyes. These metal fasteners were sturdy and inexpensive.